Iraq through a WSJ journalist\'s eyes

From: [Wall Street Journal reporter] Farnaz Fassihi
Subject: From Baghdad

Being a foreign correspondent in Baghdad these days is like being under
virtual house arrest. Forget about the reasons that lured me to this job: a chance to see the world, explore the exotic, meet new people in far away lands, discover their ways and tell stories that could make a difference.

Little by little, day-by-day, being based in Iraq has defied all those reasons. I am house bound. I leave when I have a very good reason to and a scheduled interview. I avoid going to people\'s homes and never walk in the streets. I can\'t go grocery shopping any more, can\'t eat in restaurants, can\'t strike a conversation with strangers, can\'t look for stories, can\'t drive in any thing but a full armored car, can\'t go to scenes of breaking news stories, can\'t be stuck in traffic, can\'t speak English outside, can\'t take a road trip, can\'t say I\'m an American, can\'t linger at checkpoints, can\'t be curious about what people are saying, doing, feeling. And can\'t and can\'t. There has been one too many close calls, including a car bomb so near our house that it blew out all the windows. So now my most pressing concern every day is not to write a kick-ass story but to stay alive and make sure our Iraqi employees stay alive. In Baghdad I am a security personnel first, a reporter second.

It\'s hard to pinpoint when the \'turning point\' exactly began. Was it April
when the Fallujah fell out of the grasp of the Americans? Was it when Moqtada and Jish Mahdi declared war on the U.S. military? Was it when
Sadr City, home to ten percent of Iraq\'s population, became a nightly battlefield for the Americans? Or was it when the insurgency began
spreading from isolated pockets in the Sunni triangle to include most of Iraq? Despite President Bush\'s rosy assessments, Iraq remains a disaster. If under Saddam it was a \'potential\' threat, under the Americans it has been transformed to \'imminent and active threat,\' a
foreign policy failure bound to haunt the United States for decades to come.

Iraqis like to call this mess \'the situation.\' When asked \'how are thing?\' they reply: \'the situation is very bad."

What they mean by situation is this: the Iraqi government doesn\'t control most Iraqi cities, there are several car bombs going off each day around the country killing and injuring scores of innocent people, the
country\'s roads are becoming impassable and littered by hundreds of
landmines and explosive devices aimed to kill American soldiers, there are assassinations, kidnappings and beheadings. The situation, basically, means a raging barbaric guerilla war. In four days, 110 people died and over 300 got injured in Baghdad alone. The numbers are so shocking that the ministry of health -- which was attempting an exercise of public transparency by releasing the numbers -- has now stopped disclosing them.

Insurgents now attack Americans 87 times a day.

A friend drove thru the Shiite slum of Sadr City yesterday. He said young men were openly placing improvised explosive devices into the ground. They melt a shallow hole into the asphalt, dig the explosive, cover it with dirt and put an old tire or plastic can over it to signal to the locals this is booby-trapped. He said on the main roads of Sadr City, there
were a dozen landmines per every ten yards. His car snaked and swirled to avoid driving over them. Behind the walls sits an angry Iraqi ready to detonate them as soon as an American convoy gets near. This is in Shiite land, the population that was supposed to love America for liberating Iraq.

For journalists the significant turning point came with the wave of abduction and kidnappings. Only two weeks ago we felt safe around Baghdad because foreigners were being abducted on the roads and highways between towns. Then came a frantic phone call from a journalist female friend at 11 p.m. telling me two Italian women had been abducted from their homes in broad daylight. Then the two Americans, who got beheaded this week and the Brit, were abducted from their homes in a residential neighborhood. They were supplying the entire block with round the clock electricity from their generator to win friends. The abductors grabbed one of them at 6 a.m. when he came out to switch on the generator; his beheaded body was thrown back near the neighborhoods.

The insurgency, we are told, is rampant with no signs of calming down. If any thing, it is growing stronger, organized and more sophisticated every day. The various elements within it-baathists, criminals, nationalists and Al Qaeda-are cooperating and coordinating.

I went to an emergency meeting for foreign correspondents with the military and embassy to discuss the kidnappings. We were somberly told our fate would largely depend on where we were in the kidnapping chain once it was determined we were missing. Here is how it goes: criminal gangs grab you and sell you up to Baathists in Fallujah, who will in turn sell you to Al Qaeda. In turn, cash and weapons flow the other way from Al Qaeda to the Baathisst to the criminals. My friend Georges, the French journalist snatched on the road to Najaf, has been missing for a month with no word on release or whether he is still alive.

America\'s last hope for a quick exit? The Iraqi police and National Guard
units we are spending billions of dollars to train. The cops are being
murdered by the dozens every day-over 700 to date -- and the insurgents are infiltrating their ranks. The problem is so serious that the U.S. military has allocated $6 million dollars to buy out 30,000 cops they just trained to get rid of them quietly.

As for reconstruction: firstly it\'s so unsafe for foreigners to operate that
almost all projects have come to a halt. After two years, of the $18
billion Congress appropriated for Iraq reconstruction only about $1 billion or so has been spent and a chuck has now been reallocated for improving security, a sign of just how bad things are going here.

Oil dreams? Insurgents disrupt oil flow routinely as a result of sabotage
and oil prices have hit record high of $49 a barrel. Who did this war exactly benefit? Was it worth it? Are we safer because Saddam is holed up and Al Qaeda is running around in Iraq?

Iraqis say that thanks to America they got freedom in exchange for
insecurity. Guess what? They say they\'d take security over freedom any day, even if it means having a dictator ruler.

I heard an educated Iraqi say today that if Saddam Hussein were allowed to run for elections he would get the majority of the vote. This is truly sad.

Then I went to see an Iraqi scholar this week to talk to him about
elections here. He has been trying to educate the public on the importance of voting. He said, "President Bush wanted to turn Iraq into a democracy that would be an example for the Middle East. Forget about democracy, forget about being a model for the region, we have to salvage Iraq before all is lost."

One could argue that Iraq is already lost beyond salvation. For those of us on the ground it\'s hard to imagine what if any thing could salvage it from its violent downward spiral. The genie of terrorism, chaos and mayhem has been unleashed onto this country as a result of American mistakes and it can\'t be put back into a bottle.

The Iraqi government is talking about having elections in three months
while half of the country remains a \'no go zone\'-out of the hands of the
government and the Americans and out of reach of journalists. In the other half, the disenchanted population is too terrified to show up at polling stations. The Sunnis have already said they\'d boycott elections, leaving the stage open for polarized government of Kurds and Shiites that will not be deemed as legitimate and will most certainly lead to civil war.

I asked a 28-year-old engineer if he and his family would participate in
the Iraqi elections since it was the first time Iraqis could to some degree
elect a leadership. His response summed it all: "Go and vote and risk being blown into pieces or followed by the insurgents and murdered for cooperating with the Americans? For what? To practice democracy? Are you joking?"

The thing that frustrates me the most is how these people can have so much hate towards America. And they find this as justice to place bombs in the road every 10 yards? You may say its the insurgents, well the people who are just standing back watching them plant them in the road are, too. This already seems to be a lost cause, I just hope we get out of there before this becomes Vietnam. And when we do leave, let the insurgents build up so they feel secure and then blow the shit out of them. Why not, they used the same tactics on us?

Wow.. Really, really bad.

Interesting times ahead.

Yeah, I don\'t know what to say to that. You could say it\'s sensational, but you\'d probably be right for the wrong reason...

-Dan

No matter what, the US will always be the scapegoat for the Iraqis\' problems.  They seem to forget Saddam was a power hungry, tyrannical, gun toating maroon.  He\'s a trouble maker and would have been dealt with sooner or later.

When you see a threat, you get rid of it totally.  Bush #1 let him stay in power which was a mistake.  The Iraqi people are causing their own problems at this point.  Instead of blaming the US for poor security they should be blaming their own citizens for being so ignorant and violent.

I hate to say this but maybe a country whose people love to make car bombs and fire RPGs at will doesn\'t deserve to be helped.  Fact is the US just wanted Saddam out, we\'re trying to help but it seems you need a terrorist to control other terrorists.  I wish the best for peaceful Iraqi citizens, but complaining about America won\'t help any.

You can\'t force a whole group of people to accept what we believe.

And how are we forcing them to believe anything?

...

We kinda overthrew their government and are imposing a new one on them.

Seems some people aren\'t being very receptive.

-Dan

Forcing is too strong of a word.

What other word would you use for making decisions for people who quite obviously want to get rid of American forces, and a good portion of which would certaintly love to create a religious state?

On this course - Iraq is going to be eventually split up into three seperate countries.

That way we can have another Pakistan/India situation, except THREE countries! Sounds like a party.

Originally posted by Halberto
Forcing is too strong of a word.

We have guns.

I think I might see your point, though. They can still believe whatever they want. If I were Joe Iraqi, I\'d be happy that Americans said democracy was on the way, but I\'d be damned if I step foot out of my house today, let alone heading towards a voting station.

If I were Extreme Joe Iraqi, or Super Dave Iraqi, I\'d join the rebellion to keep the invaders out of my homeland and go blow up a car and some soldiers and little hungry children.

Either way, it\'s a lovely time to be in Iraq.

-Dan

[Living-In-Clip]

Originally posted by Halberto
Forcing is too strong of a word.

Yeah, I know. I mean I can\'t believe they use the word "forcing". I mean, after all, all we done was go in, overthrow their leader, overtake their country and impose our goverment\'s beliefs on them. I wouldn\'t call that...."Forcing".

Just an inquiry,  but where did you get this from Ginko? The writing seems amature ("kick-ass" stories?) and there are many grammatical and spelling mistakes in it as well. Doesn\'t really remind me of the caliber of WSJ journalists I am used to reading.

Just making sure. The internet is tough to trust for media these days...